The way people behave in Sicily

 

Of course it may be the way people behave all over Italy but my evidence is limited to this island. And the impression that we both ended up with was very favourable.

The first thing you notice was that people were very engaged with each other. They talk a lot, sometimes quite loudly, and sometimes with people who look like random strangers, but always with warmth and emotion. When customers come into cafés and bars there is a lot of handshaking and often some cheek-kissing. And it doesn't matter at all the sex of the greeting participants. We saw plenty of football fans at the Palermo game greeting old (male) friends with cheek-kissing.

Also it is quite normal for complete strangers to say 'buongiorno' or 'salve' as they pass you in the streets. One old woman even said to Angie what translated as "God has blessed you today". Older people are particularly liable to greet like this. 

You also noticed that, as in France, it was very unusual for people in cafés or bars to use their phones as they do in England. If you are with a friend or friends in bars the view seems to be "How could something in a screen be more interesting or important than this person here with me?"

There was also a very refreshing lack of health and safety warnings. When we were up on the roof of a high fort with a low parapet, the assumption seemed to be "We know you are not stupid so we do not need to warn you about the drop." It was very refreshing.

The other thing I particularly noticed was that, although Palermo traffic seems a bit chaotic, there were no accidents. We saw none there in two weeks (in fact not even any near-misses). I think this is because everyone has a fixed intent of not running into anyone else. And they drive, cycle, walk with their eyes open. Nor do they do that irritating British thing of hooting after a near-miss or some kind of road contretemps. They might hoot in advance to warn you of their presence but they have no urge to hoot retrospectively to inform you of their feelings.

And I believe all of these behaviours reflect a very attractive and healthy awareness of other people. They do not walk with heads down into their phones (though the tourists sometimes do), and it feels as though there is always implicit permission to engage with other humans within your vicinity. We both liked it a lot and I personally will try to be a bit more Sicilian in my life here on Albion's sceptered isle.